Bernhard Roetzel

Buying off-the-rack shirts

2012-02-16T03:08:00.000-08:00

A custom shirt comes with a wider cuff on the arm where the watch is worn (photograph: Bernhard Roetzel)

There is no denying that custom made shirts have several advantages. Nevertheless not everybody can afford them. So if you buy shirts off the rack take care that the collar fits as closely to the neck as possible. Some salesmen say that the collar fits correctly if you can place a finger between collar and neck. I think that this is not correct. A collar has the right size if it feels nearly too tight.

Don't forget though that most shirts will shrink a little so keep this in mind. The new shirt must feel nearly too tight plus a little extra room. So always try the shirt on before you buy it. This also important for the correct sleevelength. Put on the shirt and then put on your jacket. The sleeve is long enough if it shows under the jacketsleeve in every possible position of the arms (this only works if your jacketsleeves are not too long).

If you want to add a little custom touch simply cut off the buttons on the cuffs and sew them on according to your exact wrist measurements. The shirt will fit and feel better if the cuffs have enough room for the watch on one arm and if they fit closely around the wrist on the other.

Brown or black?

2012-02-09T01:24:00.000-08:00

Is brown really the Italian choice? (Photograph: Crockett & Jones)

Traditionally black shoes are the only correct choice for business attire. In the 1980s a man who owned one of the old shoe companies in Northampton had the idea to tell men that Italians wear brown shoes with their dark business suits. This way he boosted the sales of brown shoes. In the old days men bought mainly black dress shoes and very few brown shoes for weekend wear. And how many black shoes do you buy? Black is boring.

Maybe the story is not true although my source is usually very reliable. Maybe the Italians really like to wear brown shoes with their business suits. Still I like the story because it is a fact that the serious Italian business people that I know prefer to dress in the most conservative way. These people always wear black shoes with a business suit.

The black Oxford seems to be the most British type of dress shoe (Photograph: Crockett & Jones)

Save energy, wear Tweed

2012-02-07T03:19:00.000-08:00

A length of a grey tweed jacketing (photograph: Bernhard Roetzel)

As I live in an old house and I don't like the dry that is caused by central heating I sit at home wearing a heavy sweater or a tweed jacket plus a lighter v-neck sweater in wintertime. Outside I choose either my old Loden coat or a heavy sheepskin overcoat. Unfortunately the temperatures are extremely high in most public buildings and shops which keeps me away from them during cold days. If you want to save energy wear warmer clothes. It is much more efficient to insulate your body rather than the building you live in.

Travelling in style

2012-02-04T04:31:00.000-08:00

A light cotton robe is always part of my luggage when I travel

Travelling in style is less a question of the brand of suitcase that is chosen but rather its contents. I always pack a light robe and some slippers because I prefer to wear my own homewear when I stay in a hotel rather than the identical white towelling gowns that are supplied everywhere in the world.

A robe is the ideal type of dress when there is still some time left before you must leave for your business and don't want to put on your suit yet. It is also perfect to receive the room service. For more than 10 years a seersucker robe from Brooks Brothers was my preferred travelling companion. When it needed to be replaced I chose a black cotton gown with striped lapels that was made of a Alumo shirting. It looks very elegant with black kneelength socks.

Size matters

2012-01-31T06:07:00.000-08:00

The pocket handkerchief should have hand rolled edges and the right size (photograph: Bernhard Roetzel)

Much has been said about the pocket handkerchief. How to match it with suit, shirt and tie and how to fold it. The size of the pocket handkerchief is rarely being discussed although I find it very important. I think that the handkerchief should measure 46 x 46 cm. Most menswear stores sell them in smaller sizes. The reason is obvious. Make them smaller and save money. Of course salesmen will tell you a different story. They might say that bigger handkerchiefs create too much of a bulge in the breast pocket. This may be true with handkerchiefs made of wool or heavier jacquard silk. Most of them are made of printed silk or linen and both materials look perfect in a generous size. The size is not a matter of provenance. I measured a white linen handkerchief from Barba in Napoli and a one made of silk from Turnbull & Asser in London. Both had the identical measurements.

Travelling with ties

2012-01-30T02:45:00.000-08:00

The Hermès tie bag will protect all sorts of ties although it will be particularly popular with men who prefer the famous brand from France (photograph: Hermès)

What is the best way to store your ties in your luggage? The safest way is probably to carry only one tie around your neck. Unless you spill tomato juice on it on the plane the tie will arrive without creases at your destination. But if you stay longer or have to change the tie during the day it might be a good idea to pack a couple of them.

The cheapest way: Roll up the tie and place inside a shoe. If you don't carry spare shoes place the rolled up tie in the collar of a shirt or in the corner of your suitcase or bag.

Almost as cheap: Keep the cellophane bags that some new ties are delivered in. Pack each tie in one of them and fold them once in the middle. If you don't put too much pressure on the folded ties they will arrive without creases.

The stylish way: Buy a tie bag. They come in different sizes and materials. These bags have the advantage that the ties are safe no matter what type of luggage you prefer (hardshell or softshell). Apart from this advantage tie bags make packing more fun because.

Francesco Maglia in Berlin

2012-01-28T10:37:00.000-08:00

Francesco Maglia holding my grandfather's umbrella (Photograph: Bettina Liebchen)

Francesco Maglia owns a copy of the book's first edition, last night I gave him a signed copy of the new one with a dedication in three languages (Photograph: Bettina Liebchen)

Francesco Maglia is usually referred to as an umbrella maker which gives the slightly wrong impression that he sits in the workshop himself. Actually he represents his family's business as the international sales director. He literally drives around the globe visiting all sorts of shops and looking after his customers. The umbrellas are handmade by a small team of artisans in Milan and they are sold both under the Maglia label and under the name of various more or less famous stores or fashion brands.

Last night Francesco Maglia was my guest for dinner. The most thrilling moment of the evening was when I showed Francesco my grandfather's umbrella which has probably been bought in the 1950s in Hannover, Germany. It is a very special umbrella because at first sight it looks like a walking stick. The extremely slim umbrella is hidden under a tubular device which can be removed. Francesco instantly recognized the make as Hugendubel from Germany which I didn't know. Mr Maglia also had a look at my umbrella from his factory which I bought in 1998 at Fortnum & Mason not knowing it's provenance. It is still in perfect condition and got his approval.

Making of A Guy's Guide To Fashion

2012-01-27T15:00:00.001-08:00

My new book A Guy's Guide To Fashion (published by H. F. Ullmann) will arrive in the bookshops in the end of April 2012. Here's a little movie that shows me in the photographer's studio.

Be careful in Italy

2012-01-27T04:35:00.000-08:00

Casual dress doesn't always mean polo shirt and chinos (photograph: Bernhard Roetzel)

Many people have a totally wrong conception about the Italian idea of casual clothes. They believe the Italians to be far more relaxed in matters of dress than I have experienced them to be in Italy. Let me tell you a little story to illustrate what I mean.

I was visiting a famous Italian suit factory some years ago with a group of fashion journalists. In the evening we were invited for dinner in a little restaurant in a small mountain village. The marketing director told us that it would be a relaxed affair in casual clothes.

When we gathered in the hotel lobby awaiting transport I was the only one wearing a tie with my navy blazer. The others wore polo shirts or dress shirts without a tie, chinos and a light sweater around their shoulders. No one wore a jacket.

When we arrived at the restaurant I had to hide a little smile. All the Italians were dressed in blazers or sports coats and everyone wore a tie. I had the feeling that they enjoyed the slight uneasiness on the side of their casually dressed guests.

So how did I know? 1) I have been to Italy many times. 2) Even if I hadn't know I would have worn a tie because I always do when I am not in a totally private surrounding.

Bad behaviour

2012-01-26T01:17:00.000-08:00

Jan-Henrik Scheper-Stuke (CEO of Edsor) and me showing off our soles

It's bad manners of course to put one's feet on the table or even a chair. At least that is what we think over here in Europe. So what is behind this photograph that shows the CEO of Berlin based tie manufacturer Edsor and me at their exhibition stand at the Bread & Butter fashion last week in Berlin?

I was visiting the stand and studied the tie collection when Jan-Henrik Scheper-Stuke arrived. He is always in a hurry because he is a very sought after young man. So we sat down for a minute and chatted about his new collection. Two Japanese girls turned up and asked for permission to photograph us. We continued our chat when another photographer approached us. Jan-Henrik Scheper-Stuke put his feet on the stool in front of him and asked me to follow suit. Even more people took photographs. It seems that our pose was an interesting contrast to our dressing style. Classic with a twist.

The Pope and I

2012-01-25T01:39:00.000-08:00

Shirt designer Ignatious Joseph never dons a hat inside with the exception of photo studios (photograph: IGN Joseph)

It might be caused by the season that hats are such a popular topic in the moment.

Last night a short interview with me on this subject was aired on local television in Berlin. The program dealt with young guys and their caps. The only one who seemed to know that wearing a cap in a room might be impolite appeared to be American (!)

My comments (filmed at Kleemann Hüte in Berlin) seem to be coming from another world just like my clothes. I suppose my opinion on headwear has as much significance for most of these guys as the Pope's ideas about sex before marriage.

The magic 74

2012-01-23T11:11:00.000-08:00

The head cutter Mrs Hartmann "closing" the tie by hand (photograph: Bernhard Roetzel)

As one of the last steps the label is sewn on by hand (photograph: Bernhard Roetzel)

Today I was filmed at Edsor's tie factory in Berlin for a tv fashion show. I had expected the whole thing to last only and hour or so but it took about four hours. I know that this will probably result in just a couple of minutes that will actually be aired but the range of topics that we covered visually and verbally was amazing. For instance we filmed the making of a handmade tie from start to end. I have seen the process several times at various factories but today I learned an interesting fact. The ideal number of stitches for a tie that is 145 cm long is 74 according to the factory's head cutter. The journalist instantly asked her how she knows at which distance she has to stick the needle into the tie to end up exactly with 74 stitches. She was slightly puzzled by the question and then answered: "I feel it".

First fitting of my summer suit 2012

2012-01-22T11:47:00.000-08:00

My new suit ready for the fitting at Kathrin Emmer's workroom (photograph: Erill Fritz)

After the successful new suit that the Berlin based tailor Kathrin Emmer has made for me I decided to order something new for summer a few weeks ago. The cloth I picked is a Kid Mohair from Holland & Sherry's collection. I wanted a plain mid gray fabric that I can wear any time of day or night.

I believe that one should either change tailors if the first suit was good or copy the first suit. Consequently I ordered the same doube breasted style again. I changed only one detail by ordering belt loops. I love to wear braces but on hot days their box cloth is too warm.

Unlike the tailors I have used previously Kathrin recommends two fittings for return customers too. So the first fitting was a real first fitting with no pockets cut into the cloth. I was very satisfied with the result because Kathrin had added minute improvements that resulted in a slightly tighter fit.

Despite the fact that this suit style contradicts the suit taste I receive very positive reactions both from people on the street and fashion pros. It seems that men start to get tired of drainpipe pants. But even if people hated this suit I wouldn't have to worry because I don't need to sell this suit, it's for me only.

For the time in years I ordered belt loops on custom trousers (photograph: Erill Fritz)

Small corrections on the trouser lenght were necessary when I belted up (photograph: Erill Fritz)

Kathrin performs the first fitting without sleeves on the jacket. This is typical for the tailoring tradition of continental Europe (photograph: Erill Fritz)

The left shoulder seem was opened and then pinned together again following the contours of my shoulder in order to improve the fit of the lapels. This is necessary because I am "down right" (photograph: Erill Fritz)

Kathrin uses wool wadding that she cuts in shape for the shoulder pads. The chalk mark on the front of my shoulder means that she must cut away some of the wadding over my shoulder bone (photograph Erill Fritz).

The summer suit

2011-06-08T01:18:00.000-07:00

Cotton Seersucker is the classic American fabric for hot summer days. A great source for this cloth is the long established cloth merchant Fabric Czar in New York City (photograph: Bernhard Roetzel)

Summer can be a season of great sartorial distress. The temperatures forbid to wear the beloved heavy suitings and jacketings, grey flannells are impossible to don and the beautifully tailored overcoat has to stay in the wardrobe. But summer does offer some pleasures to the aficionado of tailored clothes. It is the time to order new clothes for fall and winter but also the time to finally wear the summer garments that have been finished in time for spring.

The summer wardrobe is basically a lighter version of the classics that are worn between October and May. Dark city suits, country suits in shades of brown and green, sports jackets, slacks and evening wear, identical in cut and style but tailored of lighter fabrics woven from twisted yarns. In addition there is one garment though, that has no direct counterpart in the winter range of suits, the lightly coloured summers suit.

The summer suit is a fairly recent addition to the wardrobe of the northern and mideuropean gentleman, its roots can be found in the US and southern Europe. Elsewhere nobody had any real use for an off-white linen suit because summers where considered a fairly uncomfortable but short season. No real need was seen to invest in a set of clothes for three or four warm months. Nevertheless a bespoke linen suit has always been considered as something extremely elegant as it is really very impractical for daily use.

If you want to see the linen suit in its natural surrounding you should take a trip to Naples in summer. You might be lucky to see some well cut and magnificently tailored examples on the backs of a couple of some Italian or indeed foreign gentlemen. Chances are that the suits are made by one the famous tailoring houses that have fitted out some of the world’s best dressed men since the 1920s. These tailors are famous for their unlined, unconstructed linen suits in white, blue or tobacco.

Although linen is notorious for creasing and losing its shape very quickly it depends on the right weight of material how quickly the process will set in. Linen is surprisingsly heavy compared to woollen suitings, 300 or 400 g/m are not unusual. Lighter qualities are available but they will crease much more and might also be too transparent.

The tailors in Naples are well known for their suits that feel more like a shirt than a jacket. As hardly any padding can be used in this type of construction the cut is of great importance as it is the only way to give a good line to the garment. Despite the natural shoulders and the soft drape on the chest these suits do enhance the male shape beautifully. But of course the impression is one of lightness and softness.

Many gentlemen will hesitate to don a linen suit unless they stay in Capri or Sorrento. It is rather a matter of colour than of material whether a linen suit will look out of place on the summerly streets of New York, London, Brussels oder Zurich. A blue linen suit would be suitable in all of these towns, just like a garment in darker colours like tan or tobacco. Only the white linen suit might look a bit out of place, especially for office wear. In New York one will find another classic summer suit that is almost invisible elsewhere. The American answer to the Italian linen suit is the the single-breasted seersucker suit. It is named after the cloth that it is made of. To create the typical wrinkled effect the base threads are stretched while the weft threads are looser.

Seersucker is to me one of the best everyday cotton fabric, it hardly wrinkles because it is wrinkled from the start. The image of the cloth has suffered a bit in the 1970s when synthetic fibres were added to create a machine-washable quality. Thus Seersucker suits were very popular with travelling sales reps but the real all cotton fabric has remained the basis for a very stylish summer wardrobe. The classic style is unlined, selflined or halflined. It is recommendable to line the sleeves on any styles because otherwise it is hard to pull the jacket over the shirtsleeve. Natural shoulders, patch pockets and vents would be in keeping with the unlined construction and the rather informal look. A double-breasted Seersucker suit is an unusual choice but a very stylish alternative. In the 1940s this style was popular. If you find a complete suit made of Seersucker a bit too much you can use the cloth both for separate jackets or pants.

Most men think of of weaves like twill or cotton gabardine when cotton is mentioned, yet there is another type of cotton cloth that may be used for summers. Fine corduroy is a rather unuasual choice but in the right colour and weight it is very wearable and offers a type of relaxed elegance that cannot be achieved with any ofter fabric. Why not off-white baby corduroy with a lining of pale blue or even dusty pink? Summer is the season for sartorial freedoom and anything that might look totally out of place in fall can be just right for sitting in the sun while you enjoy your coffee.

The ultimate luxury suit for summer is made of silk. Silk has been always the fabric of kings and noblemen but since the French revolution its use in menswear has been reduced mainly to ties, pocket handkerchiefs, fancy waistcoats and evening wear. Summer seems to be the only season that permits a gentleman to choose silk as a suiting. There is a wide variety of colours, weights and finishes. For summer one can opt for the classic shades of cream, brown blue or elephant gray in a shantunglike quality. If one does not want to draw the attention to the fact that silk is worn you can find silk suitings that look like fine cotton or even wool. Thus it is considered as the height of understated elegance to show up in a navy silk suit that looks like worsted to anyone but the connaisseur.

Despite the beauty of linen, cotton or silk wool remains the best material for everyday suits. Today weavers offer weights that men could only dream of in the 1960s. Some tailors are not so fond of extremely lightweight cloths because they have to be handled with utmost care. Heavier fabrics can be shaped with the iron to an extreme degree while lightweights are limited in this respect. When choosing a cloth for a summer suit one should only look at the actual weight of a fabric but rather the tightness of the weave. It is advisable to hold the cloth against the light to check if the weave will breathe sufficiently. Sometimes a cloth of maybe 230 g/m may feel more comfortable than a very lighter and more tightly woven cloth of highly twisted yarns if that the heavier fabric offers a looser construction.

Another important point that will influence the way that the suit feels in summer are the interlining, paddings and linings. The Italians love unlined suits or halflined suits while men in middle or northern Europe tend to find the inside of an unlined suit to be untidy or only half finished. One may argue about the actual difference that the linings will make but just imagine one would have to wear a second shirt over the actual shirt made of the cloth that is used for the lining. On a really hot day every additional layer will make you uncomfortable. Thus I strongly recommend to try an unlined construction for summer suits, the air will pass through the fabric much more easily. The interlings and paddings are usually not discussed by most customers but it is highly advisable to ask the tailor about the type he will use. Old fashioned continental tailors sometimes tend to use heavy interlinings and too much padding because that ist he way jackets were made when they learned their trade and cloths were much heavier.

If one thinks of summer as the season of great possibilities in terms of fabrics and colours it might gain some attraction to the lover of classic dress. Summer is after all the only time of the year when we can display our suits and jackets freely while in winter they are usually hidden under overcoats. And what could feel better than strolling down the street in a handmade suit that perfectly fits body and mind.

Bespoke hats Made in Germany

2011-02-15T02:17:00.000-08:00

Jürgen Eifler makes all hats on his premises in Cologne (photograph: Bernhard Roetzel)

It is quite easy to find a place for bespoke shoes, shirts, suits or even leathergoods but if you want your headgear to be made especially for you you will have difficulties finding a good source. Even the most famous hatshops in places like Paris, London or New York City seldom offer more than made-to-measure (meaning that stock sizes are altered to your requirements) or stock singles (meaning that single orders are produced in a standard size. You can pick the style and the material from an existing range).

A true bespoke service is available in Cologne Germany in Jürgen Eifler’s shop named „Hüte nach Maß“ („bespoke hats“). Here the term „bespoke“ still has the original meaning: „A garment made by an individual, for an individual, by an individual“. This means that the owner of the shop will create something special for you according to you wishes and your physical requirements.

A green velvet hat halfway finished (photograph: Bernhard Roetzel)

The shop is located in a fashionable yet not very commercial part of Cologne. You will find art galleries, little food shops, local inns, book sellers, jeweller’s shops and antique dealers next to a number of sportswear shops and cinemas. At first sight you will probably not believe your eyes because the shop windows offer a mixture of old fashioned hats and caps alongside a number of tastefully selected vintage ads and black-and-white-photographs. You will also see cloth swatches that suggest you can have your personal style of cap made.

A second shopwindow belongs to the workroom which can be found nextdoors. Here the owner of the shop will actually make the orders that have been placed in in the shop under the eyes of anyone passing by or dropping in. No order will be shipped to a factory because Jürgen Eifler will make everything on the premises.

The walls of the shop are decorated with old hat ads (photograph: Bernhard Roetzel)

Jürgen Eifler has been trained as hatmaker in France, Belgium and Germany. After the years of apprenticeship he has opened his shop in Cologne in 1984. From the very beginning he only offered bespoke hats and caps. Every piece of merchandise on display is a sample, hardly anything can be taken away immideately (unless a client insists on buying a sample that happens to fit him).

The three most important styles are felt halts, cloth caps and Panama hats. Depending on the season Jürgen Eifler will predominantly produce one of the styles (like Panamas in summer). Less frequently but yet regularly Jürgen Eifler produces more unusual styles like silk top hats, bowler hats or vintage styles from the 18th or 19th century. In addition to traditional men’s styles Jürgen Eifler also offers millinery for female customers and last but not least he creates hats for movies, TV-shows and the theatre.

The easiest way to order a hat is to enter the shop, pick a sample and the material you want. In the true tradition of French Haute Couture Jürgen Eifler will use the chosen type of hat as a starting point from which he will create something unique. When someone enters the shop the hatmaker will notice at once whether the visitor will wear a hat with style and which shape would be best. From experience Jürgen Eifler knows that the first or caps he suggests to a new client must at least come close to the visitor’s own idea. Usually he will pick the right style but once in while he meets people that are not made to wear a hat.

Jürgen Eifler uses ancient machines to finish the hats (photograph: Bernhard Roetzel)

If a customer has decided on a style the right material will be selected. Jürgen Eifler stores a huge selection of felts for hats and all kinds of cloths for caps. The number of basic styles seems fairly small (four classic shapes for men’s hats and for shapes for cloth caps) but the actual choice is much bigger. Each style will be adapted to your personal wishes and your anatomy. So if you choose a „Homburg“ style Jürgen Eifler will still create something more personal than anything you could buy off the rack. To him the key to a well-fitting hat is the height of the crown (which is the top part of the hat). Whenever someone calls at the shop Jürgen Eifler will measure him mentally and he will determine the correct height of hat the person would need. Another important detail is the shape of the brim. Jürgen Eifler has dozens of wooden shapes at hand, all of the antique shapes he has collected over the years.

Jürgen Eifler knows that most customers don’t want hats that are too high but the hatmaker knows that a a high hat is very flattering to most heads. Nevertheless most man are reserved about wearing anything to high. Women are different because they usually choose a style that is much for individual than most men’s hats.

The next step is taking the customer’s measurements which is no big job compared to men’s tailoring. The hatmaker only needs to measure the head’s circumference, everything else is up to Jürgen Eifler’s experience. He does not use the legendary „conformateur“ (the device to determine the head’s shape) because it is only used to find out the contours of a head in order to adapt an existing hard hat (like a bowler or a tophat) to an invidual head shape. As every hat is created indivudually this device is not needed in Cologne.

Jürgen Eifler is delighted to create unique shapes according to images or drawings but he does not like to work on the basis of vague descriptions. So the best thing to do is to bring along a photograph or an ancient hat to copy.

In summer Jürgen Eifler makes a lot of Panama hats. He travels to Ecuador each year to buy the rawmaterials from the best makers. Usually he buys from them directly because he does not want to pay a margin to wholesalers or agents.

As everything is made on the premises delivery times depend a bit on the amount of orders that await making. Usually it takes 14 to 18 days to make a felt hat and 14 days to make a Panama. The cloth caps take 14 to 21 days. The prices are quite reasonable although everyhing is handmade with the help of ancient and very special sewing machines. The Panama hats (only „superfinos“) start at € 500, the felt hats cost € 200-400. Included in the price is a yearly checkup of the hat which also includes cleaning, re-lining and reblocking if necessary (which means re-shaping it by putting it on the customer’s hat block). Jürgen Eifler thinks that this service is one reason why so many customers are loyal to him because few hat shops will take care of the hats they sold.

Apart from special materials Jürgen Eifler stores 6 different colours of felt and 10 colours of velvet. The choice of cloths for caps is much bigger. The choice of felts and velvets may seem small but it is increasingly difficult to source the materials as many suppliers have gone out of business. This is why Jürgen Eifler buys up a raw materials like silk rep or silk linings from old hat factories or milliners that have closed down. In the shop you can chose from rare French 1930’s materials.

Jürgen Eifler offers a wide range of shapes for the brims of hats (photograph: Bernhard Roetzel)

The shop is decorated with old ads for hats and caps and photographs. Jürgen Eifeler is a keen collector of anything related to headgear and also of ancient specimens from various countries.

As the shop has been around for 27 years it has an impressive number of clients including 50 % foreigners from various countries (including Japan) and loads of artists, musicians, designers and actors among them Karl Lagerfeld. Jürgen Eifler serves his international customers in the old fashioned way by by either seeing them in the shop or taking orders by letters or on the phone. He is determined though to create a website.

Simplicity! An interview with Ciro Paone

2011-02-11T05:54:00.000-08:00

In 2003 I visited the Kiton factory in Naples which gave me the opportunity to do an interview with Ciro Paone in his office. The conversation was held in Italian and translated into German by Dr. Claudia Piras.

We were led into the office by Kiton's German agent and sat there for about 20 minutes while Ciro Paone chatted to some Italian friends. Mr Paone greeted us with a friendly nod without interrupting the conversation. After they had left he asked the German agent what we were doing here? It was then explained that we were there to do the interview. Mr Paone looked surprised although everything had been arranged before. Nevertheless we got the interview and a good lunch afterwards.

I have now translated the interview also into the English language.

B. R.

Is it possible to be elegant without a Kiton suit?

Ciro Paone

Your suit has a thousand mistakes, my suit has a thousand mistakes. It depends on how somebody wears his clothes.

B. R.

What is the most important rule for good style?

Ciro Paone

Semplicità - simplicity!

B. R.

What are the roots of style in Naples?

Ciro Paone

Naples has always been a very noble city. We used to have a king and a rich aristocracy. People were very cultivated and wealthy. They were able to spend their time thinking about a piece of furniture that they wanted to have made for their Palazzo. Or about their clothes. That is why these people were so extraordinarily elegant.

B. R.

What ist he principle that you follow at Kiton?

Ciro Paone

I always try to achieve perfection. It started with suits. You could find hundreds of tailors in Naples. Today only very few are left. You can’t have something made at every corner anymore. At Kiton we still work the way I know it from my childhood days. My family has been in the cloth branch for a long time. As a little boy I accompanied my father when he visited tailors. While he spoke about business I watched what was going on in the workrooms. That’s why I know a lot about cloth and and also about tailoring.

B. R.
You’re also an art expert, aren’t you? This is a wonderful collection here in your office.

Ciro Paone

Thank you. This painting is for example by Manlio Giarrizzo.

B. R.

Kiton is extremely successful in the USA and in Germany. What is the reason?

Ciro Paone

In the 18th century Englishmen and Germans came to Naples as a part of the „grand tour“. While they studied the art and the culture of Naples they had clothes made by our craftsmen. In the 1920s and 1930s the jetset visited Capri and these people also got dressed by our tailors and shirtmakers.

B. R.

Tell me a bit about the Kiton shirt.

Ciro Paone

It actually started when I couldn’t find anymore shirts that met my expectations.

B. R.
You launched the shirt for your personal needs?

Ciro Paone

Of course we also had many requests from our customers.

B. R.

But you can find very good shirtmakers in Italy and also in Paris.

Ciro Paone

You don’t know the shirts that you could find here in the past. I wanted the Kiton shirt to be just like that. That is why we worked so long at the shirt until it was ready to be launched. We are not like others who simply sew their label in any product. When we do something we do it right. We have found extraordinary people who now make the shirts exactly like they were made in the past.

B. R.

What is your off-duty style of dress?

Ciro Paone

I wear a suit and a tie almost all of the time. In the country I wear a sportsjacket. When I visited a dogshow in Hungary not long ago I was the only one dressed in a suit.

B. R.

Always suit and tie? Also in summer?

Ciro Paone

Of course. We have cloths that are extremely lightweight. I can show you a Tropical

that weighs only 160 g per meter. Or a Gabardine of 210 g. You never get too hot in one of these. Not if the cloth is tailored lightly and softly.

B. R.

Many people think of Cashmere first when they hear Kiton.

Ciro Paone

Yes, the Germans in particular. But we have much more. In our stock you can find woollen cloths, cottons, linen, anything you want. Every meter has been woven exclusivly for us. You know I am very jealous, I want these beautiful fabrics just for myself.

B. R.

People always write that the Kiton suits adapt themselves to the wearer’s body.

Ciro Paone

That’s because we sew a lot by hand. Manual stitching creates a flexible seam. After a few days the garment will really shape itself after your body.

B. R.

Will there be a Kiton shoe one day?

Ciro Paone

Guess how old the shoes are that I’m wearing? They are 25 years old. Wie alt schätzen That is how I would want the Kiton shoe to be. It would be necessary to buy a shoe factory. Presently I don’t plan to do that.

B. R.

What about kissing buttons? What is the point?

Ciro Paone

Once I was down in the workrooms with a customer and he asked the same question. One tailor said: Shouldn’t the buttons be allowed to love each other a bit?

B. R.

Are Germans elegant?

Ciro Paone

You can find elegant people everywhere. In Italy, in Germany and in the USA. It doesn’t have to do with nationality.

B. R.

Do you have many famous customers in Germany?

Ciro Paone

I won’t mention any names.

B. R.

How does the future look for Kiton?

Ciro Paone

Good. My nephew is an absolute fanatic about quality, almost more than I. The other day he tore a jacket to pieces when he discovered a mistake. I don’t worry about the future. Provided we still find enough tailors. That is a problem even in Naples.

B. R.

You have achieved everything. Any more wishes that you want to come true?

Ciro Paone

Bring me a Kiton suit that wem ade 30 years ago and I will give you a new one in return. I’m very sorry that I hardly have any pieces from our beginnings.

B. R.

Nothing else?

Ciro Paone

Oh yes. Many more beautiful dogs.

B. R.

Mr Paone, thanks very much

German tailoring

2011-02-03T14:41:00.000-08:00

Heinz-Josef Radermacher from Duesseldorf is one of Germany's most successful tailors. All suits are cut personally by the master (photograph: Bernhard Roetzel)

It seems nowadays that the craft of tailoring is an English invention that the Italians copied after the war but of course this is not true. Tailoring was an art know in all countries of Europe and one could order decent clothes everywhere between Stockholm and Naples. The quality of workmanship depended on the price you could pay but for the rich there was no need to travel to London to order a suit because the best tailors of Hamburg, Berlin, Munich or any other bigger town worked just as well as their colleagues in the West End.

The number of tailors was huge in the late 19th century everywhere in Europe because ready-to-wear did not exist yet – with the exception of children’s wear which was sold off the rack since the 18th century. If one could not afford a tailor one had to wear second hand clothes which was the only option for the majority. In Germany the decline of tailoring started slowly in the 1930s when department stores started offering ready-to-wear clothes in a big way. Nevertheless the middle and upper classes still preferred custom tailoring until the 1950s. In 1956 the impressive number of 47.115 men’s tailors with 92.581 employees where officially registred in West Germany, not counting outworkers who worked from home. In 1994 only 1.429 businesses were left in reunified Germany with 4.529 employed cutters and tailors.

Today tailors are even harder to find but a limited number is still alive and kicking. Competition has led to the survival of the fittest and the few remaining businesses have noticed an uprise in orders in the last ten to five years. People have started rediscovering handmade clothes in the 1980s but now, after twenty years and steadily rising prices, Germans start to turn away from Italy’s luxuriously priced made-to-measure labels towards craftsmen in their neighbourhoods. And although some of them have a slightly stuffy appearance they do understand modern fashion better than tailors in other European countries because since the 1920s German tailors tried to compete with ready-to-wear rather by being fashionable than classic. This attitude is very different from the English position that prefers not to change at all and sees fashion as a dreadful modern invention.

If one compares the tailoring traditions of Europe the Germans need not fear any competition in the quality of the workmanship, for instance buttonholes are usually stitched with much greater care than in English workrooms and pattern matching is done with almost scientific precision. The weak point used to be the heavy stuffings and interlinings that gave the wearer the appearance of a dress dummy. Much fun and mockery has been made of the German tailor’s preference for horsehair canvasses but in the last 10 years most craftsmen have learned to make a much softer and lighter suit and the traditional heavy armour has almost completely died out. This is of course the result of the strong presence of Italian brands like Brioni and Kiton, they have set a new standard of soft tailoring that pampered the customers and forced the tailors to follow this trend.

German tailors put great emphasis on the construction of the pattern. A true master of this art is Volkmar Arnulf from Berlin (photograph: Bernhard Roetzel)

A real peculiarity of German tailoring is the system of training which also applies to other crafts. The training lasts three and a half years and it takes place both at the workshop of your master, the „Meister“, and at a state school where the theory of the trade is taught in addition to basic topics like Mathematics, German or Chemistry. After the training you must do a final exam. Afterwards you are permitted to be employed as a tailor, if you decide that you want to become a master of the trade you must take another training course at your own expense, usually an evening school that is visited after work. At the end of this additional master course another exam has to be passed and a master piece, the „Meisterstück“ has to be produced. Only tailors with the officially approved title of „Meister“ are allowed to train new tailors and to call themselves „Maßschneider“ which means custom tailor. This system may seem a bit rigid, nevertheless it ensures certain standards of training and workmanship.

Bernhard Roetzel

Talking fashion to editor Shinro Hayashi from Tokio. An exclusive translation from Japanese

2011-01-26T03:48:00.000-08:00

Photograph by courtesy of Christian Kerber.

Q1.

In your book you said tucking your hand in the trouser pocket is out of

manner in Germany. I didin't know that! There must be other "unwritten

fashion taboos" in other European countries. Enlighten me

The opinions about fashion and style differ strongly from one country to the other. In Germany, Austria, Switzerland, Belgium, The Netherlands and Scandinavian countries it is perfectly acceptable to wear a combination of checked sports jacket and grey trousers in the office unless you belong to the highest ranks. In the UK it has to be a dark suit and black shoes.

The English consider the Italian habit of wearing brown shoes with charcoal grey worsted or flannel as very smart on Italians but it would be judged as trying too hard at being stylish on a fellow Englishman. If you want to impress English people with your clothes they must be of the best quality but very old. At least this is the case with upper class folks. The best thing to do on a dinner party is to mention that your suit was made for your grandfather in the thirties by Henry Poole. Even an old handmade dinnerjacket from a second hand store would impress them more than a brand new outfit from Caraceni.

Generally speaking many Europeans do not appreciate it if someone shows off too many expensive brands. This applies also to accessories. One has to be very careful with items from Hermès and other luxury brands. For example the classic double faced belt with the H buckle is still an undisputed classic in France and even the most elegant jeweller from Place Vendôme will wear it with his Cifonelli suit whereas in London it is considered as being rather flashy and „nouveau riche“. The Italians are an exception because they admire well dressed people and they do not mind at all if someone shows off his gold Rolex watch, the latest and most expensive cellphone or smart sunglasses.

Q2.

Traveling on the airplane is always a headache. What will you suggest for

airtravelling in style in Economy Class? (For Spring and Summer)

Air travel is a real nuisance in summer because the lightweight fabrics crease more easily than heavy winter cloths. So when I fly from Berlin to Firenze to visit the PITTI UOMO I wear casual clothes during the journey and change into my summersuit in the hotel prior to entering the fairground.

If there is no time to change I recommend an unlined summer suit in a dark grey or a midgrey or brownish glencheck. Both the dark colour and the pattern will hide small stains that might result from the meals or drinks (when your neighbour drops his fork in the sauce). The best fiber to wear is wool because it does not wrinkle so easily even if you leave the jacket on. The shirt should be of a light oxford weave because it doesn’t crease as quickly as a light batiste or voile. If it is very hot you should wait until you arrive at your destination before you put on the tie. This reduces the risk of stains during meals. The best shoes are lace-ups or monkstraps because you can loosen them up a bit when your feet increase in size while sitting.

Q3.

Classic suits, classic shoes, classic anything is OK to me. But also some of

the products from modern lux brands look good to me too. Is there any bridge between classic wardrobe and modern alternatives?

I really think that the Japanese are masters at this art. When I visited Michael Drake 4 years ago in his London workshop he said that he considers Japanese men as the best and most innovative dressers in the world. I do agree!

The Italians also have a good way of mixing modern sportswear with the most classic suits, shirts, ties and shoes. I remember when I saw some Italians at the big computer fair Cebit in Hannover in the late Eighties wearing light blue quilted jackets from Husky over their charcoal suits from Bardelli. It took the Germans 10 years to understand this approach.

The best part to inject modern styles in the suit are shirt, tie and shoes provided the suit works with modern items. I find it impossible to wear my handmade shoes from Santoni with my Savile Row suits because the styles contradict each other. Generally speaking suits and shirts from Italian tailors or manufacturers can be more easily updated than their English counterparts.

Q4.

Many Japanese would relate to my problem. I'm short. Can you give me great advice for the short guy who still want to look good in classic wearing?

From the sartorial point of view shortness is no problem at all because the effect and the fit of your clothes are not related to your relative size as long as you get the proportions right. The most important things to avoid are wide and loosely cut clothes. John Coggin has made many suits for me and he always explained it this way: „When you see a single person from a distance it is impossible to tell his size provided that his clothes do not make him short because the jacket and the sleeves are too long, the waistline is to low and the trousers to wide in the knee.“

So this is my advice to short people: Wear suits with natural shoulders and a well defined waistline. In my style lectures I demonstrate the right amount of waist suppression (that is how the tailor refers to the fitted waist) by pointing to the space between the arms and the waist. When you stand with your arms hanging down there must be room between the sleeve and the waist of the suit. This space stretches your figure and makes you taller.

Another important point for short people is to wear suits with an extremely high crochet (the seam where the collar is joined to the lapel), a high waist, a fairly short jacket, narrow and and rather short trousers. Have a look at photographs of Charles Chaplin when dressed as a private person from the twenties and thirties. He was short and slim but extremely elegant because his suits where cut close to the body.

And finally don’t forget that Italy is a country of short men and at the same time the home of some of the best dressed people in the world. The Prince of Wales is also not very tall and in addition he has short legs, wide hips and extremely sloping shoulder. Nevertheless he looks extremely elegant because the bespoke suits that Anderson & Sheppard’s cut for him are perfectly proportioned and balanced.

Shortness even has one substantial advantage. When you buy cloth to have it made up into a suit you need less when you are short and slim. The tailor of former German chancellor Helmut Kohl told me that he needs 5 m of fabric when he makes a two piece suit for his famous customer. Now when you consider the price per meter of a decent worsted or even cashmere you will be very happy when you have to buy only 3 m because you are smaller than him.

Suits en route

2011-01-16T10:41:00.000-08:00

(Photograph: Christian Kerber)

Finding the right clothes for travel is an easy task for the average holiday maker. The bespoke addict will see various difficulties when he prepares for a journey. Will my suit wrinkle when I wear it all day long? Can I change before the meeting? Should I travel light and bring on only a minimum set of clothes? Or should I rather carry a suitcase with a two suits to choose from? How high is the risk of my treasured bespoke suits getting lost somewhere between Europe and Asia? Will the weight of the fabric be right for the climate at my destination? What does the freshly pressed suit look like when I take it out of the suitcase? As an answer to all these questions frequently flying businessmen will take great care in finding the right styles and cloths for their travelling wardrobe.

When traveling short destinations in Europe with rather brief periods of being seated in a plane any midweight quality will do the job. Nevertheless one should not choose fabrics made of fibres that are finer than Super 120 S or Super 130 S without regard to the actual weight of the cloth. The finer the fibre that the yarn is made of the more sensitive it is to rough handling. Thus a Super 120 S worsted with the weight of 280 g would be just right. This might seem pretty heavy by many people’s standards but a journey is not the same as a quite day in the office. So if you are heading for hot countries leave the summersuits in the case and travel in a midweight cloth because lightweights would wrinkle too much. Cloths made of highly twisted yarns are in general better suited for travel. During the colder seasons slightly heavier suitings are very recommendable because they keep you warm and crease less. The type of fibre is also an important aspect. The worst for travelling would be linen followed by cotton. Both fibres make great fabrics for warm days but unfortunately suits tailored of these two lose their shape at alarming speed. The fibre that is best suited to the rigours of travel is Mohair. By nature Mohair is very elastic and it will crease less than wool or Cashmere, for that reason it is a good choice for your travelling wardrobe. Purists reject the idea of synthetic fibres but they perform very well in blends with wool or cashmere. Especially in countries with a very hot and humid climate they are frequently used.

As for the choice of colour and pattern one must differentiate between a suit that is made for the actual journey and the one to be worn when you reach your destination. The latter will be chosen according to the rules of dresscode and the season without regard to practical questions. In the 1920s and 1930s, a time often termed the golden age of tailoring, a gentleman would wear a sportsuit on the train. Usually such a garment was made of a hardwearing tweed or cheviot. Glenplaid was also a classic choice for a travelling suit. Checks were popular because they gave the wearer a relaxed air and suited the adventurous aspects of travel. In addition little stains that may occur during the journey will not show on a vivid check. The modern world leaves less time for changing one’s clothes and thus most business men will wear one suit during the whole day. It is therefore advisable to spend some thought on the garment’s style and detailing.

Inside pockets should be made with buttons to avoid things falling out while the jacket is folded up for storage in the overhead lockers. Some men even insist on zippers for their inside pockets although to the majority this is not a very appealing solution. The outside pockets of the jacket should be made with flaps because they will help to keep things inside. A flap would also be a good idea on the breast pocket because it prevents glasses or mobile phones to slip out while bending over to pick up a suitcase. Sportjackets were frequently made with a flap on the breastpocket in the 1930s for this very reason but of course a handkerchief cannot be worn if this detail has been chosen.

The cut and the style of the pants may also be adapted to the special demands of the traveller. Cross pockets have the advantage that little things like keys, coins or tiny mobile phones will not be lost when one sits down. It is important to remember that they can only be chosen with flat fronted trousers so if somene prefers pleats he can’t have them. Cross pockets are also considered to look too sporty for a business suit by some but others would not agree. But most men would opt for side pockets either welted or cut in the sideseam anyway because this is the most frequent style. Bespoke tailors usually make them with a little pocket inside the lining for coins. As for the cut of the pants one would not recommend drainpipe styles for travelling because trousers that are cut very close to the leg may be very uncomfortable while one is seated. They also tend to stick to the kneelength socks at the calves which is very annoying. Slightly wider legs are thus recommended. The most reasonable and comfortable style for travelling are brace-top trousers because they will stay in place at all times. This can be very important when one has to carry bags in both hands. Brace-top trousers also have the advantage of fitting less tight at the waist which makes them more comfortable while sitting. Despite all these advantages most men prefer belted trousers nowadays. They should be measured just a little bit more generous around the waist to give the wearer the chance to loosen up the belt a bit during a longer journey.

Packing a suitcase is almost an art and was left to specialists in the past. The Duke of Windsor’s valet used to stuff the inside of the suits with paper to avoid creasing. In those days spacious trunks were used, sometimes with the suits hanging on a rail.

Many wealthy gentleman evaded the problems of packing suits completely by owning several sets of garments that were stored in their various residences. This practice is still fairly common among very rich suit lovers but for most patrons of bespoke tailors it is not an option. Trunks are still the best way to store suits during a journey and for men who are lucky enough to travel first class it is possible to use them. Most business travellers will use an ordinary suitcase though or a suit carrier.

Hard shell suitcase are to be preferred because they protect suits better than any type of soft luggage or suit carriers. The latter are usefull only when one travels in a car because in that case they can be hung up in the back or laid flat in the trunk. During airtravel suits will be crushed while carrying the sack through a narrow plane or storing it in the overhead lockers.

There are several schools of thought concerning the best way to fold suits. The most common one recommends to lay the jacket flat in the suitcase with the sleeves spread out. The pants are then folded up along the creases and placed on the chest of the jacket. The sleeves are now folded as if they wanted to embrace the trousers. Another popular way to store the suit starts by turning the jacket inside out and then tucking one half of the jacket in the sleevehead of the other half. No matter how you fold up the suit please remember to never pack too many garments in the suitcase. The more you stuff inside it the more pressure will be put onto the clothes. Always aim to preserve the three dimensional shape of the jacket either by actually stuffing the sleeves, the chest and the shoulders with paper or soft garments like socks, sweaters, polo shirt or underwear.

Take the suit out of the case as soon as you arrive in your hotel and hang it up. Wrinkles that are not ingrained too deeply into the fabric will disappear thanks to gravitation but allow some time for the process. The better the cloth the faster it will regain its shape. Deep creases will not disappear without the help of steam. Seasoned travellers carry little steaming devices in their luggage similar to the ones used in shops to remove creases on hanging garments. You can also use the steam of a hot shower that runs for a while in your bathroom. If you hang the garment in the misty clouds it will regain some shape but it don’t expect wonders on severely crushed cloths. They need either the help of a steaming device or an iron. In most hotels steam irons are available and the more expensive ones usually offer a pressing service. It is not wise to rely on that option alone because it may not be available on a while-u-wait basis so careful packing is always the way to minimize the risk of turning up in a badly creased suit.

If it does happen for reasons that are beyond your power don’t worry too much. A true Gentleman will wear a slightly rumpled suit with a stiff upperlip. Elegance is after all a state of mind.

Bernhard Roetzel

Custom Shoes

2010-09-13T05:50:00.000-07:00

Photograph: Eduard Meier, Munich Germany (www.edmeier.de)

My article on custom shoes at alisterpaine.com has led to some discussions among friends of exquisite footwear. That's great because it proves that many people have read it. The discussions were very intersting for me to read. Thanks to everyone.

When I was asked to write something about this subject I could have delivered the usual praise of handmade footwear. But I haven't. I preferred to say something that most people don't expect. Let me quote from my article:

"Thus it would be more honest to state that custom shoes are phantastic if they are built around a last that fits and if the craftmen know what they are doing. If this is not the case custom shoes are a nightmare and worse than the average factory product."

I haven't said that custom shoes in general are no good. I only pointed out that some are no good and warned men to be careful about their choice of shoemaker.

My new column

2010-07-10T03:57:00.000-07:00

Please click on the headline to read my new column on custom shoes at alisterpaine.com!

Fitting my Belvest suit in Berlin

2010-07-09T05:49:00.000-07:00

I first heard about Belvest in 1999 from Michael Drake of Drake's at a fashion in Cologne, Germany. A few years later I tried the company for the first time. I gave them a blue super lightweight cotton suiting from Scabal and they made it up beautifully into an unlined single breasted suit with patch pockets. I also entrusted them with a length of seersucker cloth that I had brought back from Fabric Czar in New York City and again I was very happy with the result.

At Belvest I always order a suit that is based on their jacket in the box and match it with flat front trousers. So I was very happy that I had the chance to meet Andreas Kauers in Berlin som weeks ago, Belvest's representative for Northern Europe. He took an order for a single breasted grey sharkskin suit. To ensure a perfect fit he suggested a fitting which took place Wednesday at the Premium show in Berlin.

The suit will be finished in a couple of weeks and I will keep you posted about the result.

James Purdey & Son

2010-06-21T00:22:00.000-07:00

The gun and rifle maker James Purdey & Sons is something like the John Lobb of his trade. Like the cobbler he too looks back on a long history and his list of former and present customers includes VIPs galore. Hardly any famous or rich inhabitant of the British Isles is not to be found on it. If a member of the upper crust is presently not a customer he will surely be related to someone who is or owns a Purdey that has been handed down to him. And by the way, it is considered much more stylish to use your grandfather’s gun because this proves that your family has been rich and/or famous for a long time.

The company was founded in 1814 and the first blueblooded customer was the German prince of Leinegen. He had ordered a double-barreled rifle in 1823. In 1825 the Duke of Gloucester placed the first order for the British Royal Family. He was the brother of King George IV. Other aristocrats followed suit like the Duke of Cumberland or the Crown Prince of Bavaria. Although it would be interesting to continue this list as it include famous people of all sorts it would simply not be possible to complete it as it contains about 28.000 names. If you are lucky enough to be shown around the basement of the building you will catch a glimpse of some famous names of today because in one room guns are stocked while they wait to be serviced or repaired. Each case bears a famous name including some famous British rock stars.

If you don’t get a chance to see the basement you will probably be at least allowed in the long room. It used to be a workshop and later the family’s dining room (like the Royal family they lived above the shop), today it is at the same time Purdey’s hall of fame, a museum, a fitting room for bespoke guns, a conference space and a showroom. The walls are covered with paitings, drawings and photographs. In addition you find memorabilia, guns and all kinds of gun-related decorum.

Although the shopwindows are decorated with shooting accessories and country clothes Purdey’s fame is based on their bespoke guns and rifles. One can hardly thing of anything more gentlemanly than to have one’s weapon custom made at Purdey’s because shooting is still one of the most classic gentleman’s sports. Although most people have to make do with a less prestigious gun a Purdey is still considered as the best choice for anyone who can afford it. There are very good off the rack guns and rifles and a number of other bespoke gun and rifle makers who offer their services but nothing can be compared to getting one from the Mayfair shop. The slightly less expensive alternative to the shooter’s ultimate joy is getting a second-hand Purdey. They are available in the shop but of course they will never fit as well as the bespoke one.

The procedure starts with taking the customer’s measurements, for example the distance between the middle of the back and the shoulder or distance between chest and eye. Usually seven measures are necessary to determine the gun’s perfect size. The idea of all that is that a perfectly fitting gun will almost automatically move into place when you lift it to aim at a duck or whatever you go for. Afterwards some questions will be asked: What type of animals or shoot do you want the gun for? This is important for the the lenght of the barrel of the number of triggers. Then the order will will be sent to the company’s workshop in Hammersmith.

First of all the weight of the finished guns will be precisely calculated according to the customer’s specifications. This is important to meet legal requirements and for the balance of the finished gun. Now the barrels will be cut to the desired length and, in the case of double-barreled guns, they are soldered together. The breech mechanism and the front-section are handmade and machine finished, and all the other steps are carried out by hand.

Once the breechblock and barrel (or barrels) are complete, work begins on the stock. This is made using French walnut from the Dordogne, which has exactly the right color, grain, hardness, and density. The shape of the stock will be tailored to customer’s measurements and the engravings will be chosen according to his wishes and taste. Next the weapon will be assembled and tested and after several checks it will delivered to its new owner. The whole process will take about 3 years. According to Purdey’s many customers will another one soon because once you get used to the bespoke gun nothing else will do.

A double-barreld shotgun will cost upwards of 30.000 GBP if you don’t order any costly extras or luxurious engravings. Rifles are more expensive, they start at around 50.000 GBP. In case you don’t want to pay this type of price or don’t shoot in the first place you can look around in the clothes department for some classic English shooting or country gear. With much less outlay you will look like a gentleman just as well even without a Purdey gun.

James Purdey & Sons Ltd

Audley House, 57-58 South Audley Street

London W1K 2ED

Tel. +44 (0)20 7499 1801/ 5292

Fax: +44 (0)20 7355 3297

E-mail: enquiries@james-purdey.co.uk

www.purdey.com

New interview

2010-04-08T07:47:00.000-07:00

Please click on the headline to read the interview I gave Nicola Linza.

My new column

2010-04-07T12:45:00.001-07:00

Click on the headline and find my new column at alisterpaine.com!

The English Scent

2010-03-25T23:32:00.000-07:00

The story begins in 1994 with a dramaturge who came to Berlin to work at one of the town’s theatres and was left with no job when the season ended. He did not want to leave Berlin and the family he had founded there so he decided to open a specialist shop for English scents. His wife thought the idea was crazy Lothar Ruff remembers smilingly: „Nobody wants these English fragrances she said. No one in Germany would even understand the name of the shop.“ But Lothar Ruff had no choice he admits because the only the thing he knew anything about besides drama was English fragrances: „The customers that I was looking for are people who either no what the name of my shop means or will ask.“

Lothar Ruff is convinced that „smell, of all senses, is the most evocative.“ Everyone has experienced how memories or feelings are linked to certain fragrances. Nevertheless people around the world offer their noses only the fashionable fragrances that are sold everywear in the world. Lothar Ruff regrets the fact that so many people expect so little individuality. They prefer to smell like millions of other people. His customers are different. They want a fragrance that suits their personality and most of them will find one that compliments their person in the range of Lothar Ruff’s shop.

„Fortunately in the UK some really unique scents have survived“ Mr Ruff explains „while in most parts of the world mass products dominate the market.“ He is not very happy about this tendency but he is glad that the British have stuck to their fragrances due to their sense for tradition. Nevertheless a few companies have gone out of business and others start to adapt to the demands of high street shops. Lothar Ruff shows the last remaining stock of „Royal Yacht“ and „The Crown Perfumery“ which have suddenly become something like collector’s items. But new brands have emerged like „Anglia Perfumery“. Ruff proudly points out that he is the only shop on the continent that will offer their fragrance „Royal Court“.

The shop is located in a residential area called „Charlottenburg“ only a few minutes away from the metrostation „Savignyplatz“. One wouldn’t expect a specialist shop for exclusive fragrances there but his customers find their way. Most of them are regulars and more than half of the business is done over the internet, by phone or fax. The customers are mainly German but Lothar Ruff ships worldwide. Only a few days ago a parcel has left for Hongkong.

Something like 150 different scents from 14 makers are currently available including all famous English names like „Czech & Speake“, „D. R. Harris“, „Geo. F. Trumper“, „Penhaligon’s“ or „Truefitt & Hill“. In addition less well known companies like „The Cotswold Perfumery“ or the above mentioned „Anglia Perfumery“. The shop also offers shaving accessories, hairbrushes, toothpaste and various other toiletries including bath foams and deodorants – needless to say all of 34 brands on offer are sourced on the British Isles.

Speaking of polishing

2010-03-23T01:13:00.001-07:00

Photograph: Eduard Meier, Munich.

I'm the type of guy who keeps his shoe cleaning utensils in an old shoe box but for those of you who prefer a more stylish option I can recommend a very useful and elegant case by Eduard Meier in Munich. Click on the headline to learn more.

Great to be in Florence

2010-03-23T01:04:00.000-07:00

Last month I stayed in Florence for one night. I had been invited by Gianluca Caccioppoli (the Gentleman holding the red book) to hold a speech and sign the new edition of my book. Next to me stands Mr Luppi, he is the agent for Crockett & Jones in Italy. He showed his collection to our guests and among the various shoes I discovered a slim Oxford in dark brown suede called Hallam which I ordered afterwards.

I have mentioned several times that I mainly wear suede shoes. Not only because I like but also out of convenience. It saves me spending hours on polishing.

A personal message to my English readers

2010-03-22T12:54:00.000-07:00

I'm sorry for the poor technical quality but if you concentrate on my message you will not be aware of the fact that it was recorded with my mobile phone on the way to the supermarket where I was sent by my wife for a bar of chocolate.

Morning coat

2010-03-22T06:50:00.001-07:00

A friend from Vienna has asked me for advice on morning dress. Here is my reply:

1. Always wear a turndown collar.

2. Always use the four-in-hand knot for the tie.

3. Buff is a better colour than grey for the waistcoat.

4. Oxfords are more stylish than Gucci loafers.

5. Always wear a flower in your button hole (I had lost my red rose a few minutes before the photograph was taken).

Portraits of an author as a middle aged man

2010-03-19T06:56:00.000-07:00

Photograph: Franca Wrage

I have been photographed by Franca Wrage at the Ritz Carlton hotel in Berlin recently (in fact before I grew my beard). I would like to share these pictures with you. If you click on the headline you will see the complete series.

For all you clothes nuts let me give you the details of the above pictured outfit. The suit was made for me in 1999 by John Coggin (then of Tobias Tailors in Savile Row) of a cloth from Harrison's of Edinburgh. The shirt is by Ignatious Joseph, the linen handkerchief is Barba of Naples, the tie is by Tobias Tailors, the socks are from the Falke Luxury Line and the shoes are loafers from Eduard Meier.

Coming soon! iGentleman. The Style Guide

2010-03-19T06:54:00.000-07:00

It seldom happens that one can present something that the world has been waiting for. You will be able to witness one of those rare moments when you come to Berlin (Germany) on 31th March 2010 to "4010 - Der Telekom Shop in Mitte", Alte Schönhauser Str. 31, 10119 Berlin. Starting at 17:45 h I will present a short preview of "iGentleman. The Style Guide", the brand new iPhone app in German and English. I hope to see you there.

Azemar-M: Broderie à la main en tous genres

2009-11-16T07:39:00.000-08:00

If your shirts are custom made it is a common option to get them with your initials. Unless you order them from a maker in Naples they will be stitched by a machine most cases. Paris is another place where you can get shirts with hand embroidered initials. Most of the very few „chemisiers“ left in the former world capital of custom shirt making don’t employ someone to do this job anymore but rather ship out the work to a specialist. You can find this specialist in „rue Pasquier“ in the shop Azemar-M. The specialist is a „she“, because „M“ means Mia and this is the christian name auf Mrs Azemar.

The work for the shirtmakers is only part of her business. On her card she describes her business as „Broderie à la main en tous genres“ which means something like „hand embroidery of all sorts“. On this card she also calls herself as „Spécialiste de chiffres pour trousseaux“ which translates into „specialist for initials for dowries“. The latter seems like a very old fashioned affair but wealthy Parisians still seem to follow the old tradition of buying a complete set of bedcovers, sheets, towels and napkins for a young bride and each item has to be embroidered with her initials.

The shop is situated at the end of rue Pasquier in the 8th Arrondissement. This is a very good area just a few minutes away from the „Madeleine“ and surrounded by elegant clothes and shoe stores. Mrs Azemar does not know exactly when the shop was founded but she owns old ledger books with entries dating back to the end of the 19th century. The shop is much than that and it has always supplied hand embroidery. The original address was in rue du Faubourg St. Honoré but it changed places a few times. Before the present premises were acquired the shop was located in rooms in the first floor which is common for tailor shops as well.

Mrs Azemar is Spanish by origin, born in Burgos. Her trade which seems more like an art at times was taught to her by Spanish nuns but she never intended to make this craft her profession until she moved to France and started looking for a job. In 1965 day she found an ad in the newspaper. Someone was looking for an „embrodeuse“. She applied for the job and got it. Since then she worked in the shop that she later took over. She works together with one employee, a French lady that is responsible for transfering the letters from the stencils on the cloth. All the embroidery is done by Mrs Azemar at a little desk in the shop. All she needs is the thread in the right colour, needle and thimble and the light of an old fashioned lamp.

For each embroidery a paper stencil has to be created which will then be filed. Literally tens of thousands of them are available in the cardbord boxes on the shelves in the backroom. They are countless because every possible letter and combination of letters have been done in various types of letterings in the shops long history. In addition pictorial designs are available covering all types of motifs: Cars, animals, people, plants and anything else that one could think of. On many of the thin papers of which have turned yellow or brown with age you can find handwritten notes of client’s names and dates of their order from the past two centuries.

It is quite incredible but Mrs Azemar does all the embroidery herself. The delivery time is even more surprising because on average a client has to wait only 8 days no matter if he has ordered initials for one shirt or half a dozen. The explanation is simple. Mrs Azemar always works on the orders of one client at the time. So if starts do the initials for William Smith she will do all the W. S. one after the other. The prices are charged per letter while the amount depends on the style. The more complicated the more expensive it gets. Simple block letters cost € 7,85. The most expensives ones cost € 135 per letter but these are very elaborate and huge. One client had a lion, a crown and his initials embroidered on his pajamas and this cost him € 210, a huger version of the lion only was € 310. On display are two embroideres for cushions that were part of a dowry. The measure 30 x 23 cm and cost 5500 Euro each which is not expensive if you consider that Mrs Azemar had worked 100 hours on each.

Although Mrs Azemar has spent countless hours with her work she still is very enthusiastic about it and she loves to speak about her customers. She remembers a young Japanese woman that stayed in a hotel in the same street and discovered the shop by chance. The came in with a t-shirt she had just bought and took it off in the shop to have the initial of her name embroidered on it. Mrs Azemar did the job right away because the next day the Japanese lady went back home. Mrs Azemar has also embroidered boxer shorts, night gowns and even socks in addition to all the other things she has done but there are still she has not worked on.

Au Grand Rasoir in Brussels

2009-10-31T03:26:00.000-07:00

The „coutellerie“ (knife shop) „Au Grand Rasoir“ is situated just a few minutes walk away from Brussels’ two main tourist attractions, the „Grand Place“ and the „Manneken Pis“. Nevertheless the shop is surrounded rather by office buildings than souvenir shops. The shopwindow is an attraction in itself and almost all the time someone will stop and look at the great number of goods on display. And quite often something is sold to tourists looking out form some European quality cultery or just a Swiss Army knife but the main business is done with customers who come to the family run shop because they look for shaving equipment, knives or scissors.

The shop was founded in 1821 at the same place that we find it today and from the very first day it has sold what it sells today. Since 1929 the shop is owned by the Cielen family, presently by Jean Cielen and his wife Marie-Claire. Jean Cielen grew up in the shop and learned the trade from his father. Together they travelled to the most important trade fairs in Germany and France, visited manufacturers and received visits of sales reps. Marie-Claire joined after their marriage and she too has become an expert. Their daughter still visits school but maybe some day she will consider to take over.

It would take an exact count to find out the number of brands available in the shop but Mrs Cielen estimates that more than 60 different makers can be found. Almost every quality brand is available from France, Germay, Italy and many other countries including Japan. Razors (cut throat and safety razors), shaving brushes and shaving soaps are one big part of the business, in addition scissors, pocket knives, hunting knives, cutlery and specialist knives for all types of purposes are stocked. Traditional cut throat razors have become popular again and many customers receive expert advice on the of these shaving tools including an instruction how to sharpen them on a leather strap.

The selection of razors is impressive and the range of prices is very wide. The cheapest ones cost 44 Euro, the most expensive one 370 Euro. This exquisite work of art is crafted in Solingen (Germany) and the handles are covered in Mammoth bone (not Ivory!). Shaving brushes are also available in great numbers although they will be restocked before Decembre because this is the most important time for the shop when people come to buy presents.

All shaving brushes are made of badger’s hair. Depending on their colour they cost from 27 Euro to 370 Euro. Mrs Cielen explains the difference: „Three colours are available, white, grey and black. White is the softest and most expensive type, it comes from the badger’s head. The grey brushes form the middle price range, this hair comes from the animal’s sides. The black brushes are the least expensive ones, they grow on the animal’s belly.“ Needless to say that all brushes are of good quality compared to the ones sold in ordinary shops because quality is one thing that the owners of this shop never compromise onBetween 50 and 60 different types of scissors are on display. Some of them are for everyday purposes like cutting paper, hair, fingernails or cloth, others are more unusual like the curved one with blunt ends which is used to cut a dog’s hair between the „fingers“ of his paws or around his eyes or a tiny one for a baby’s nails. Also the traditional scissors for embroidery are available which are shaped like a bird (very popular with Japanese customers).

Knifes and scissors are not only sold but also repaired, restored or sharpened. Mrs Cielen proudly shows a set of silver cutlery with renewed blades and points out that knife and scissors are sharpened within a few days. Many restaurants and chefs use this service regularly. But Mrs Cielen enjoys a different type of customer most: The little boys that come in with their fathers to get their first Swiss Army knive. A huge selection is available including the very small ones for a ladies’ handbag with scissors and a tiny pen to the very thick specimens with countless blades. „The boys always want the huge ones“ says Mrs Cielen but together with their fathers she gently directs them to a more sensible size.

Guenzati in Milan - The oldest shop in the world

2009-10-10T00:19:00.000-07:00

It is strange to think that the oldest still existing shop of Milan doesn’t deal with Parma ham, Parmegiano cheese or wine but with tartan cloths and scottish apparel of any type. The shop is located in Via Mercanti near the cathedral. If you look into the shop windows you might have the puzzling impression that you are not in the capital of Lombardia but have been beamed to Scotland or at least London. Lengths of tartan cloths and tweeds, handknitted mittens, scarves, bonnets, tweed caps, sweaters, Walker’s shortbread, Whisky, waterproof coats, scottish daggers and everything else that you might expect to see anywhere rather than in Milano.The first thing that catches your eye when you step inside are ancient wooden shelves in which bolts of cloth are piled up high right up to the ceiling. Mainly colourful tartans but also tweeds, saxonys, worsteds, twills and every other type of cloth a gentleman might need. Needless to say that all cloths originate from the British Isles because the Italians love „i tessuti inglesi“ more than the products of their own mills in Biella.

The shop was originally founded in 1768 near its present place. Various documents prove the shop’s long history in the cloth trade. Since the late 19th century it was in the hands of the Tomegno family. Since 1968 Guenzati is owned by Vittorio Ragno and Angelo Moretti. Vittorio Ragno had entered the business in 1956 at the age of 19. Despite his young age he was already an experienced cloth buyer with 5 years of experience in his trade. When he started working at Guenzati Vittorio was one minute late which was considered a very serious offence by his new employer. It seems that the employees did not mind these strict rules because they all stayed for a long time if not for life like Stefano Colombo who worked as a „fattorino“ for seventy years until he retired at the age of 84 („fattorino“ means that he delivered goods and did all kinds of odd jobs). In those days the shop employed 9 people but to serve customers nationwide the also worked with 12 sales reps who traveled Italy with their cloth swatches in order to take orders from tailors.

In 1968 the original owners decided to retire and offered their two employees Vittorio Ragno and Angelo Moretti to enter the business as partners. Five years later the two took over completely after they had proven to run the business the right way. During the era of the Tomegno family the cloth sold at the shop came mainly from weavers in an around Biella but Ragno and Moretti decided to stock more English and Scottish cloths. As they buy directly from the mills they are always able to offer the best possible price. This is why no such thing as a sale or end-of season-discounts are known at Guenzati. The customer knows that he gets the best value for money anyway. And he can be sure to be advised in the best possible and most knowledgeable way by the staff. People come here to choose a cloth together with the salesperson because they can rely on their competence.

Although Guenzati can count on a broad customers base from the oldest Milanese familys and the Lombardian aristocracy Vittorio Ragno does notice some changes in the habits of his clients: „People nowadays only want Tasmanian worsteds. They forget Mohair, Alpaca, Vicuna, Cheviot and Crossbred.“ It would be necessary to educate the customers more but this is of course difficult.“

Francesco Maglia - "Ombrellaio" and gentleman

2009-10-05T00:50:00.000-07:00

Dinner with Francesco Maglia at "Lutter & Wegner" in Berlin.

Francesco Maglia loves umbrellas and everyone who does so too. That is why he has friends everywhere in the world because wherever somebody needs a good, handcrafted umbrella chances are that he will call on Chino as the tall, whitehaired and bearded „ombrellaio“ (umbrellamaker) from Milan is nicknamed by family and friends. Whereever he meets his friends he will greet them wholeheartedly and full of joy in a number of languages. „Buenas dias“, „bonjour“, „hello“ or „guten Tag“, Chino is fluent in Spanish, French, English and German plus of course his mother tongue Italian and last but not least the now so seldomly heard Milanese dialect with its strong French influences.

Chino’s communication skills go far beyond the spoken word because he manages to explain the advantages of his handmade „ombrello“ to anyone who has eyes to see. With the elegant gestures of an actor he directs the attention to the little details that make all the difference between an umbrella „fatto a mano“ in the workshops situated opposite BIFFI in Corso Genova and the cheap competition from China. When he sees a well dressed man carrying one of these cheap things that are sold on the street when the rain starts falling he shakes his head full of regret: „How can you spoil the beauty of your dress with this device? Look at our product. We have solid wood handles, the cloth is cut and sewn by hand and the metal pieces are all solid brass.“ So you better don’t mention the word plastic in his presence because it might make him furious for a few moments. But only very briefly because this „gentiluomo milanese“ would never bore his guests with a bad mood.

Chino does everything to make other people feel happy and at home especially when he invites them in his house. Tucked up high under the roof in a house two backyards away from a tiny street in the old parts of Milan it is the most charming and cozy place to be and of course you will find umbrellas everywhere. The walls are literally covered with 18th and 19th century etchings showing his object of desire while a huge advertising poster from the early 20th century catches the eye of the visitor. Sidetables and shelves are filled with mementos of umbrellas and several big fat albums are packed with postcards from the last 100 years or so showing what? Well, you may have guessed what.. Even the dinnertable carries a centrepiece in the shape of an umbrella turned upside down and the precious china from Limoges is decorated with delicately handpainted „parapluies“. The only thing on the table that has nothing to do with Chinos pride and joy will be indeed the delicious food that he and his wife Francesca will serve their friends because dinnertime is one of the few moments when even Mr. Umbrella himself forgets his beloved „ombrelli“.

Advantages of living in Europe: A daytrip to Salzburg

2009-09-14T05:23:00.000-07:00

Photograph: Andrea Trofer

I was invited to do two lectures on the subtleties of style at the men's wear shop Wanger in Salzburg/ Austria. When I saw all the tourists from overseas I was really glad that this beautiful place is only an hour away from Berlin (by plane). It was great to work there and my wife enjoyed the "Mozartkugeln" that I brought back home.

Why Naples? Get a bespoke tie from Berlin

2009-08-25T13:29:00.000-07:00

I had a wonderful bespoke made today at the Berlin based tie maker Edsor Kronen. Founded in 1909 the company serves some of the most distinguished outfitters in Europe.

During my tour of the workshop I selected two silks for a bespoke tie with contrasting colours on both ends similar to Zegna's "Twin Tie". I picked fuchsia and electric blue rep which was then made up " a mano" at amazing speed by the house's directrice while I chatted with CCO Jan-Henrik M. Scheper-Stuke. The bespoke option is usually not available to the public but factory tours can be booked which will include a handmade bespoke tie for the visitors.

For more details on this, wholesale enquiries or addresses of shops that stock the ties please contact the company directly (if you click on the headline of the post please you will be linked to the company's website).

Tweed requests

2009-08-20T13:31:00.000-07:00

Many readers have asked me about the source of the tweed that I wear on my website.

(Photograph: Christian Kerber)

It is a thornproof by Lear Browne & Dunsford (tailored by John Coggin). As far as I know the pattern is currently not available.

To learn more about the company please click on the headline of this post.

Dressing Down Obama

2009-08-16T01:01:00.000-07:00

More on President Obama's style. Please click on the headline to read the article from "The Boston Globe".

Back from a short break in the country

2009-08-14T14:30:00.000-07:00

Thanks for all your comments. I spent some days in a countryhouse in beautiful Brandenburg with no internet connection. It was only an hour away from Berlin but lightyears from the www. Now I'm back home ready to reply.

New edition soon available in 10 languages

2009-08-09T12:30:00.000-07:00

The new edition of "Gentleman" was released in the beginning of 2009 simultanously in German and English. In July 2009 the Swedish, Finnish and Dutch versions should have arrived in the stores. In the middle of September 2009 editions in Romanian, French, Spanish, Danish and Portugese are planned to be released. No other book on menswear has been published in so many languages in such a short time. The first editionwas published in 1999. In the 10 years to follow it has been translated into 19 languages.

Something for our Danish readers

2009-08-08T05:46:00.000-07:00

The President's pants - How it started

2009-08-08T02:19:00.000-07:00

If you click on the headline you will find the review of my book "Gentleman. A Timeless Fashion" with my comments on the President's pants.

The President's pants

2009-08-07T12:55:00.000-07:00

It seems that The President's pants are still a fascinating subject.

Need a hairdresser in Berlin?

2009-08-04T07:57:00.000-07:00

It had to get my hair cut and I tried Daniel in Schivelbeinerstraße. The shop's just around the corner from my place and I know a few people who go there.

Trying a new hairdresser is a bit like trying a tailor. But the man did a very good job because my hair looks exactly like before, just a bit tidier.

By request

2009-08-03T07:50:00.000-07:00

The tie that I wear with my striped suit is from Harvie & Hudson. I bought it in the Jermyn Street shop around 1998 to match my grey Glenchcheck suit but I love to wear it with navy too.

The White Stripes

2009-08-03T04:51:00.000-07:00

(Photograph: Piffikus-Agentur GmbH)

I had always wanted a striped suit. When I asked John Coggin to show me some fabrics he grabbed a bunch from Harrison's of Edinburgh and pointed exactly at what I was thinking of. That's (among other qualities) what makes him a great tailor.

At 450 g/m it's not exactly a lightweight but I wear it even in summer when it's not very hot. I'm not a great fan of super leightweight cloths anway. Some of them feel like paper when you wear them. They don't seem to breathe as much as a slightly heavier weave that allows the air to pass through. That's why I always check a fabric by holding it up to the light.

Hot day chic

2009-08-02T08:14:00.000-07:00

What do you wear on a hot day? My friend Francesco Maglia (www.ombrellimaglia.com) from Milan gave a good example on a visit to Berlin.

Of course he prefers rainy days for business reasons but he keeps up the good mood

when the sun shines.

Bow tie tying versus guitar playing

2009-08-01T01:15:00.000-07:00

Looking at this image it seems that my skills on the guitar are more advanced than my bow tie tying skills.

(Photograph: Axel Hupfeld)

Do it now

2009-08-01T00:52:00.000-07:00

I wonder why so few men learn to tie a bow tie?

Here are ten things that are harder to learn:

1. Driving a car.

2. Using the computer.

3. Setting up an account at Ebay.

4. Counting to ten in Italian.

5. Sewing on a button.

6. Pressing a shirt.

7. To say sorry.

8. Repairing a flat tire on your bike.

9. The E Chord on the guitar.

10. Buying a subway ticket from a machine in a foreign country.

A dusty matter

2009-07-31T13:55:00.000-07:00

Dusty madder silk is a classic but alas very hard to find. And don't let yourself be fooled by salesmen. What they usually offer is imitation dusty madder silk.

Don't ask for pants with pleats in German fashion stores

2009-07-31T04:28:00.000-07:00

I was looking for a pair of navy chinos WITH pleats last week so I went to a fashion store called P & C in Berlin.

The sales clerk looked at me as if I was slightly insane to ask for something unfashionable like pants with pleats but I am used to this because sales clerks have very little sense for coming trends and I never expect them to say something like "yeah, I think pleats are coming back". Chinos with pleats are so hard to find in Germany that I had to buy a pair at Ebay (for 1 EURO).

I decided to buy a pair of navy pants by PRL instead. They are cut like 501s but the fabric is lighter and the shade of navy looks great with the brown suede fullstrap loafers by Eduard Meier that I wear almost every day this summer.

Thanks to Christina

2009-07-31T03:51:00.000-07:00

Yesterday Christina asked me if I have an English blog and I had to say no which was rather embarrassing.

I am a German fashion writer and some of you may know my book "Gentleman. A Timeless Fashion". Please check out my website www.bernhardroetzel.de (German and English).

By the way: What do YOU think about President Obama's pants? Are they really too long?

Bernhard Roetzel

Buying off-the-rack shirts

Brown or black?

Save energy, wear Tweed

Travelling in style

Size matters

Travelling with ties

Francesco Maglia in Berlin

Making of A Guy's Guide To Fashion

Be careful in Italy

Bad behaviour

The Pope and I

The magic 74

First fitting of my summer suit 2012

The summer suit

Bespoke hats Made in Germany

Simplicity! An interview with Ciro Paone

German tailoring

Talking fashion to editor Shinro Hayashi from Tokio. An exclusive translation from Japanese

Suits en route

Custom Shoes

My new column

Fitting my Belvest suit in Berlin

James Purdey & Son

New interview

My new column

The English Scent

Speaking of polishing

Great to be in Florence

A personal message to my English readers

Morning coat

Portraits of an author as a middle aged man

Coming soon! iGentleman. The Style Guide

Azemar-M: Broderie à la main en tous genres

Au Grand Rasoir in Brussels

Guenzati in Milan - The oldest shop in the world

Francesco Maglia - "Ombrellaio" and gentleman

Advantages of living in Europe: A daytrip to Salzburg

Why Naples? Get a bespoke tie from Berlin

Tweed requests

Dressing Down Obama

Back from a short break in the country

New edition soon available in 10 languages

Something for our Danish readers

The President's pants - How it started

The President's pants

Recommended reading

Need a hairdresser in Berlin?

By request

The White Stripes

Hot day chic

Bow tie tying versus guitar playing

Do it now

A dusty matter

Don't ask for pants with pleats in German fashion stores

Thanks to Christina